The Coast By Train

San Diegan on San Clemente, California
America’s railroads are associated more with interior valleys and broad plains than open ocean. But two trains, the “San Diegan” from San Diego to Los Angeles, and the “Coast Starlight,” which continues from Los Angeles en route to Seattle, parallel the coast, passing areas inaccessible by automobile.
With their dining cars, sleeping compartments, and observation cars, they are a flash from the American past, part of Amtrak’s 24,000 miles of track, final vestige of the nation’s once-proud rail system. In the coy of its three-hour route the “San Diegan” travels for an hour along the shore, taking in the sights from Del Mar to Dana Point. It rumbles past Los Penasquitos Marsh Natural Preserve, a nesting place for migratory birds, then rims a series of lofty sea cliffs, which fall away to reveal narrow bands of sandy beach.
There are four other marshes and lagoons en route, representing some of California’s most vital wetlands. Along the way lies one of the nation’s major centers for cut flowers and ornamental plants. Then further north Camp Pendleton, a Marine base and site of frequent military manuevers, stretches along 17 miles of prime coastline. Another unsettling sight, the San Onofre nuclear power plant, flashes by before the train enters San Clemente, home to President Richard Nixon during his ill-fated ad ministration. From here the “San Diegan” turns inland to the old mission town of San Juan Capistrano and cuts through the heart of Orange County.

Coast Starlight passing through McCreddie Springs.
Picking up the baton in Los Angeles, the “Coast Starlight” continues north past ticky-tack homes, those proverbial houses on the other side of the tracks, and squat, blocky office buildings stained with graffiti. It arrives at the ocean in Oxnard and parallels the Pacific, shuttling past stretches of open water populated with surfers and occasional fishermen.
From here north the tracks hone a fine line along sharp rockfaces. Farm houses flit by on one side, while looming offshore are oil rigs and the Channel Islands. The mission towns of Ventura and Santa Barbara are stations on the itinerary. Then the train crosses high trestles and climbs above the shore toward Point Concepcion. This is California’s geographic turning point, where the coast veers sharply right and the beaches, which earlier pointed south, turn to face the west.
Beyond the lighthouses at Point Concepcion and Point Arguello rise the missile silos of Vandenberg Air Force Base. This is the western spaceport for the Space Shuttle, whose launch pads and support building rest along the tracks. It is also headquarters for a Strategic Air Command launch site complete with satellite stations and Minute man missiles. The entire area, otherwise closed to the public, is open to view from the “Coast Starlight.”
Grand finale to the coast portion of the journey are the Nipomo Dunes, massive, wind-shaved sand hills that shadow the shore for more than 20 miles. At Pismo Beach, known for the beds of Pismo clams within its sands, the “Coast Starlight” turns inland, trading the wide Pacific for California’s broad, fertile Central Valley.
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