Beaches



Those who expect California to have the palm-dotted, serene waters of the tropics will be startled to find beaches with a harsh, violent beauty instead. The coast south of Santa Barbara more or less upholds the Hollywood image (prominent lifeguard stands and loads of Beautiful People in skimpy beachwear), but even here the water is rarely warm (about 65 degrees F). Along the Central Coast, beaches give way to the majestic cliffs of Big Sur. This sort of craggy topography continues all the way up the North Coast. Some of the best beaches require a hike down, usually of at least 100 ft. Look for trailheads, but use extreme caution, particularly when high tides force the waves all the way up against the rocks. Stay on marked trails and abide by signs that say, “Danger: people have been swept from this cliff and drowned.” They’re not kidding around. If you choose to brave the icy surf, be careful as the beaches up north have terrific undertows and riptides. Never go in water that is more than knee-deep. Summertime is when most people hit the sand, but don’t expect to catch rays on the Central Coast, which is at its foggiest and dampest then. The Beach Bible is the thorough California Coastal Access Guide ($18) published by University of California Press, which details the coastline beach by beach from Crescent City to San Diego. For a really thorough tan, check out Dave Patrick’s California’s Nude Beaches (Bold Type, Inc.; $16).

 

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Castro District



Cafe Flore. Flore is one of the Castro’s premier gay gathering spots for pseudoartists, political activists, and trendy boys in black turtlenecks. If the outside seats are full, strike a pose until someone makes room – sharing tables is de rigueur. Expect plenty of noise, action, and, in midst of it all, and incredibly attractive someone looking furtively your way. Preferred reading material: Jean Genet (just pretend to read)

 

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San Francisco



San Franciscans have long been believers in the connection between coffee and the arts. Early acolytes of this philosophy included beat poets Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg, who held all manner of performances at Caffe Trieste, in North Beach. It’s still a popular place to grab a demitasse on a rainy day, especially if you have someone with whom you can hold hands under the table. Postmodern hipsters will feel more comfortable in the cafes in the Mission or the Haight.

 

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Cafe Culture



On Friday night Bay Area cafes are often as crowded as the local bars. More than mere filling stations, they are where locals come to meet friends, gossip, discuss Descartes, read pulp fiction, pen poetry, or polish dissertations. In particularly cafe dependent societies like Berkeley and San Francisco, coffeehouses do more than just grind and brew coffee beans: Neighborhood artists display their works; bands ply their trade; and open-mike poetry readings take place nightly. For up-to-date information on what’s happening, check the “Calendar” section of the Bay Guardian or any free weekly.

Though you’ll find a few slick megachains like Starbucks and Pasqua, Most Bay Area coffehouses are either family-run or local chains with no more than three or four branches. They come in every style imaginable, and sampling the range is part of the fun: You can drink your morning cappuccino in a cubbyhole with elegant sofas and classical music; savor your noon espresso in a postmodern warehouse space where Armani-clad admen mingle with mangled bike messengers; and linger over a late-night latte in a pillow-strewn, tapestried setting resembling an Ottoman sultan’s chamber. If you’re looking for the company of students, politicos, or New Age prophets, head to Berkeley. Otherwise, your scene awaits somewhere in San Francisco. Cafes are generally open from 6 AM or 7 AM to 11 PM on weekdays and until midnight (sometimes later) on weekends.

 

 

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Marina District / Cow Hollow



The nightlife in this affluent neighborhood is typified by the bevy of bars in the Triangle, the intersection of Fillmore and Greenwich streets, which attract hordes of sporty young professionals. The crowds are clean-cut, and the neighborhood is one of the safest in the city.

Blue Light Cafe. If the modern industrial decor (including, of course, blue neon) doesn’t seem like that of a sports bar, the TVs will eventually clue you in. Beloved by Marina and Cow Hollow singles, the Blue Light packs in the young and sporty every evening. 1979 Union St., at Buchanan St.

City Tavern. An elegantly casual thritysomething crowd gathers around the oval-shape bar to enjoy expertly mixed drinks, the mellowing effect of incense, and music soft enough to allow for conversation. Warm-color walls and subdued light from blue lamps take the edge off the industrial cement floor, making this tavern, mainly a restaurant, a pleasant spot for a drink before a night on the town. 3200 Fillmore St., at Greenwich St.

Comet Club. Marina hipsters who don’t feel like trekking to the Mission head into this cavelike bar. Kids in expensive leather jackets snuggle in the half-moon booths lining the wall across from the bar and listen to the throbbing sounds of soul, techno, and R&B. After 10 o’clock the small dance floor in the back starts jumping. 3111 Fillmore St., at Filbert St.

Union Ale House. Head downstairs into this friendly English-style pub and have a pint with Cow Hollow’s postcollegiate crowd. Or make your way to a table in the large back room, where a tropically colored wall-sized mural counteracts the subterranean locale.

 

 

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Haight and the Western Addition



Always hot on the heels of the latest trend, the Haight has some good bars that capitalize on the city’s passion for retro cocktail emporiums. The neighborhood is especially popular with cocktail-quaffing consumers who have just loaded up on pricey flower-child togs, as well as a sprinkling of middle-aged hippies and slacker kids. When you want a watering hole that’s slightly rougher around the edges, head for the Lower Haight, where you’re likely to find local barflies in their twenties.

The Deluxe. The year is perpetually 1945 at this slick retro bar in the Upper Haight. Patrons enjoy donning their finest ’40s duds (hairdos and shoes included), sipping martinis, and acting very cool. You’ll usually find a crooner, complete with backup swing band, or at least owner Jay Johnson doing Sinatra his way. 1511 Haight St., between Ashbury and Clayton Sts.

Mad Dog in the Fog. This British-style pub in the heart of the Lower Haight is frequented by neighborhood folk in search of cold beer and televised rugby. For lukewarm rugby fans there are other diversions: a dartboard inside, a beer garden outside, and trivia competitions for beer and cash prizes on Monday and Thursday. Mornings there are greasy breakfasts like the Greedy Bastard (bacon, sausage, baked beans scrambled eggs, and tomato; $6.50) – and all dishes more than $6 include a free pint until 2:30 pm.

Molotov. Young, tattooed, Lower Haight types come here to drink beer and play pool. Arrive early on weekends to snag the lone table, as the crowd can be fierce in the standing room. 582 Haight St., between Fillmore and Steiner Sts.

Murio’s Trophy Room. Murio’s, in the Upper Haight, is often overcrowded with bikers and Haight Street slackers, but it can be fun and low-key on weekdays. When the conversation lags, amuse yourself with the pool table, jukebox, and TV.

Noc Noc. Step inside this Lower Haight institution and you’ll find yourself in a postmodern cave complete with chunky Flintstones-style furniture and a very eclectic music repertoire. Expect a healthy variety of beers and a couple kinds of wine including sake – but no hard liquor. 557 Haight St., between Fillmore and Steiner Sts.

The Toronado. A narrow, dark Lower Haight dive, the Toronado attracts a  leather-clad set with one of the widest selections of microbrews in the city. The jukebox blares a refreshing mix of kitschy country and western in addition to the standard grunge anthems.

 

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Downtown and Civic Center Area



Beware of this area after sundown: Prostitution and drug dealing are common on many corners – especially in the Tenderloin, which is loosely bordered by Larkin, O’Farrell, Mason, and Market streets. Nevertheless, there are a few bars worth braving if you have door-to-door transportation (when in doubt, call a cab).

Backflip. A mixed international crowd packs this chic bar, which manages to feel space-age and retro at the same time. Tucked into the Phoenix Hotel, the bar is in the middle of a small dance area that leads to a more spacious lounge section. Don’t miss the glassed-in waterfall in the wall – one of many interesting touches in this surprisingly unpretentious spot. A cab is a wise choice in this part of the Tenderloin.

Edinburgh Castle. This diamond in the rough was established before the Tenderloin earned its reputation for squalor. A Scottish pub with a beautiful bar, it’s a great place to play darts, make friends with thick-accented U.K. types, eat fish-and-chips, and down pints of Guinness or Bass – it also has the best single-malt collection in the Bay area. Local bands make occasional appearances; if you’re lucky, you might catch a reading by such authors as Patrick McCabe.

Diva’s. This Tenderloin landmark is the city’s most popular transvestite haven, although there’s no “dress” code posted at the door. The area is often dangerous and the crowd occasionally seedy, but the flamboyant patrons provide an energetic, entertaining night of thrills. Come for the free drag shows on Friday and Saturday nights – But please refrain from gawking.

Place Pigalle. The vibes are hip and European (but definitely not pretentious) at this sleek, low-key, French-owned Hayes Valley wine bar and gallery space. Stop in for a glass of wine after work and stay for the evening; there’s live jazz from Thursday through Saturday nights and occasional spoken-word performances during the week.

 

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Chinatown



By day a maelstrom of gaudy souvenir shops, pungent markets, and overcrowded sidewalks, Chinatown transforms into a quieter neighborhood at night, when most people on the streets are en route to or from one of the neighborhood’s many Chinese restaurants. Step into one of the local bars for a reminder of whose part of town this is.

Li Po’s. The dark, cavernous setting and incense-burning altar lend an oddly mystical feel to Li Po’s. By 1 AM the coveted back booths are filled with boisterous escapees from the North Beach scene, who are almost daring enough to join in the occasional karaoke.

Mr. Bing’s. A heterogeneous mix of drinkers lines the narrow V-shape bar at this hangout on the edge of Chinatown. The scenery includes ubiquitous video poker machines and a jukebox that plays scratchy Sinatra tunes.

 

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Berkeley Marina



Warm days were meant to be spent at the Berkeley Marina, at the end of University Avenue approximately half a mile west of 1-80. Head for the 3/4-mi pier jutting out into the bay to enjoy the unbeatable views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz Island. Winds along the bay can be quite chilly, which makes nearby Cesar E. Chavez Park (formerly North Waterfront Park) a perfect retreat. The hilly 92-acre park is Berkeley’s only open space without a leash law for dogs and is also one of the most popular kite-flying areas in the Bay Area.

The Shorebird Nature Center offers visitors a glimpse of bay marine life in its 100-gallon saltwater aquarium and runs all sorts of educational and environmental programs. For information on renting boats or hooking up with one of the sailing clubs stationed at the marina, stop by the Marina Office. To get to the marina, drive west on University Avenue across 1-80 or take Bus 51M from the Berkeley BART station.

 

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Parks and Gardens



Tilden Regional Park

Tilden Park’s more than 2,000 acres of forests and grasslands are a wonderful escape from the gridlocked lowlands. Follow the sign to Inspiration Point for a view of reservoirs and of rolling hills where cows laze. There are plenty of picnic spots and miles of hiking and biking trails.

Tilden Nature Area Environmental Education Center (EEC), at the north end of the park, sponsors a number of naturalist-led programs throughout the year. Independent types can borrow or buy a self-guided trail booklet ($2) at the center, which is open Tuesday-Sunday 10-5. For a nice, easy walk (about a mile), take the Jewel Lake Trail loop from the EEC office, and look out for the salamanders. To make friends with domestic animals, detour to the nearby Little Farm.

Other destinations in the park include Lake Anza, which is open for swimming late March to mid-October, daily 11-6; pony rides ($2.50); a vintage carousel ($1); a botanical garden of California plants, open daily 8:30-5, with no admission charge; the 18-hole Tilden Park Golf Course and a miniature steam train ($1.50). Rides operate on weekends and holidays when school is in session and daily during spring and summer vacations.

To reach Tilden Park from the Berkeley BART station, take Bus 8, 65, or 67. If you’re driving, take University Avenue east from 1-80 to Oxford Street, go left on Oxford, right on Rose, and left on Spruce to the top of the hill, cross Grizzly Peak Boulevard, make an immediate left on Canon Drive, and follow the signs.The park is open 5 AM-10 PM.

 

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